Uganda Safari Holiday: What We Loved About Tracking Chimpanzees in Budongo Forest and Gorillas in Bwindi – An Honest First-Timer’s Experience

Before we left for Uganda, I was terrified. Not of the travel. Not of the cost. Of the moment.

What if the gorillas didn’t appear? What if the chimps were hidden in the canopy? What if I spent all this money and came home with nothing but mosquito bites and a story about a long hike?

I was wrong. So wrong.

After trekking chimpanzees in Budongo Forest and mountain gorillas in Bwindi, I can tell you this: the fear disappears the moment you hear the first chimpanzee scream. And the tears come the moment the silverback looks into your eyes.

This is not a travel brochure. This is what it actually felt like. The mud. The exhaustion. The laughter. The tears. The moment I realized I was looking at a cousin—98% the same DNA—and seeing myself.

This is an honest, first-person account of what I loved about tracking chimpanzees in Budongo Forest and gorillas in Bwindi. No fluff. No generic marketing. Just the sensory, emotional, raw truth of what it feels like to stand in the presence of our closest relatives. You will learn: what surprised me most about each trek, what made me laugh, what made me cry, what I wish I had known before I went, and which experience—chimps or gorillas—stayed with me longer. If you are trying to decide whether to do one or both, or just want to know what you are signing up for, this is for you.

Quick Overview of the Experience (Emotional, Not Logistical)

The deeper truth: The chimpanzees made me laugh. The gorillas made me cry. I needed both to understand something about myself. You will too.

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Before the Trek – What I Was Afraid Of (And Why I Was Wrong)

Let me be honest about the fear. Because you are probably feeling it too.

The Fears I Carried

How I Prepared (And What I Wish I Had Known)

The Night Before

What I felt: I could not sleep. Not from jet lag. From anticipation. What if? What if? What if?

What happened: The alarm went off at 5:30 AM. I drank coffee in the dark. I packed my daypack three times. I was terrified. I was excited. I was ready.

What I wish someone had told me: “The fear is part of it. Feel it. Then walk into the forest anyway.”

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[IMAGE PLACEMENT 1: Pre-dawn at lodge – coffee being poured, headlamps on table, anticipation. 1200px+. Caption: “The night before. No sleep. Just anticipation.”]

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Budongo Forest – The Chimpanzees That Made Me Laugh Out Loud

We chose Budongo over Kibale for one reason: fewer crowds. But we stayed for the chimpanzees.

First Impressions of Budongo

The First Sound – The Thing That Stopped Me Cold

What I heard: A scream. Not human. Not monkey. Something in between. It echoed through the trees. I stopped walking. My heart pounded.

What I thought: “What is that? Is that them? Are they okay? Are WE okay?”

What my guide said: “They are greeting each other. Or fighting. Or playing. With chimps, it is hard to tell.”

What I felt: Fear. Excitement. Disbelief. This was really happening.

The First Sight – Shapes Moving Fast

What I saw: At first, nothing. Just leaves and branches. Then movement. A shape. Then another. Dark shapes moving fast through the canopy. Branches shaking. Leaves falling.

What I thought: “Are those…? Yes. Those are chimpanzees.”

How many: At least a dozen. Maybe more. They kept appearing.

The Hour with Chimpanzees – Chaos, Laughter, Wonder

What they did:

• Screamed (constantly)

• Swung from branches (effortlessly)

• Groomed each other (tenderly)

• Fought (briefly, loudly)

• Ate (everything)

• Played (the babies were absurdly cute)

What I did:

• Laughed (so much)

• Took photos (most were blurry)

• Put my camera down (to just watch)

• Looked at my partner (we were both grinning)

What surprised me: They did not sit still. Not for one second. I had expected something like gorillas—still, calm, posing for photos. Chimps are the opposite. Chaos incarnate. And I loved them for it.

The Emotional Hit – Laughter and Wonder

What I felt during the hour: Pure joy. The kind of joy that surprises you. I had expected awe. I had expected reverence. I did not expect to laugh until my cheeks hurt.

Why it affected me: They are so clearly our cousins. The way the mother held her baby. The way the young males roughhoused. The way the alpha male watched everyone. I saw my family in theirs.

The moment I will never forget: A baby chimpanzee fell out of a tree. Not far—maybe two meters. He landed on his back. He looked stunned. Then he looked around to see if anyone noticed. No one did. So he picked himself up and climbed back up. I laughed so hard I almost cried.

What I Loved Most About Budongo

What I Wish I Had Known Before Budongo

The Honest Budongo Truth: “I went into Budongo expecting something serious. I left laughing. The chimpanzees do not care about your expectations. They will scream, fight, play, eat, and fall out of trees. And you will love them for it.”

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[IMAGE PLACEMENT 2: Chimpanzee in Budongo – moving through branches, blurred motion. 1200px+. Caption: “Chaos incarnate. And I loved every second.”]

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The Drive Between – From Budongo to Bwindi (What No One Tells You About the Journey)

Between the chimps and the gorillas, there is a long drive. This is what no one tells you about that day.

The Drive – Not Glamorous, But Important

What I Thought About on the Drive

Questions in my head:

• “Will the gorillas be as amazing as everyone says?”

• “What if I am too tired to appreciate them?”

• “What if I cry? (I did.)”

• “What if I don’t cry? (I did. A lot.)”

What I did: I looked out the window. I listened to music. I held my partner’s hand. I let my mind wander.

What I wish I had done: Napped. I should have napped. I needed the rest for gorillas.

Arriving in Bwindi – The Air Changed

What I felt stepping out of the car: Cooler air. Denser air. The smell of damp earth and green things growing. The forest here is different from Budongo. Darker. Thicker. Heavier.

What I thought: “This is serious. This is not the laughing forest. This is the sacred forest.”

What I did: I sat on the lodge veranda. I watched mist rise from the valley. I tried to prepare myself. You cannot prepare. But I tried.

The Honest Drive Truth: “The drive is long. You will be tired. But the moment you arrive in Bwindi, the air changes. The forest knows something important is about to happen. You will feel it too.”

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[IMAGE PLACEMENT 3: Scenic drive photo – rolling hills, tea plantations, mountains. Caption: “The drive between forests. Long. Beautiful. Necessary.”]

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Bwindi Impenetrable Forest – The Gorillas That Made Me Cry

I thought I was ready. I was not. Nothing prepares you for this.

First Impressions of Bwindi

The Morning Of – Nerves and Coffee

5:30 AM: Wake up. Coffee on the veranda. Mist in the valley. Nerves in my stomach.

6:00 AM: Breakfast. Could barely eat. Too excited. Too scared.

6:30 AM: Briefing at park headquarters. Rules. Safety. Do not look them in the eye (they will look at you). Stay 7 meters back (they will come closer). No flash photography (obvious). Whisper (difficult when excited).

7:00 AM: Assigned to a gorilla family. We got Rushegura. Known for being calm. Known for having a playful baby.

7:15 AM: Hired a porter. Best $20 I have ever spent. He carried my daypack. He pulled me up muddy slopes. He saved my knees.

The Trek In – Mud, Sweat, and Anticipation

What the trail was like: Steep. Slippery. Muddy. The porter pointed where to step. I followed. I slipped anyway. So did others. We laughed. We helped each other up. Strangers becoming friends.

Duration: About 2 hours. Felt like 20 minutes. Felt like 20 years. Time is strange in the forest.

The moment we knew we were close: The guide stopped. Whispered into a radio. Listened. Smiled. “They are near. The trackers found them.”

The First Sight – A Shape in the Vegetation

What I saw: At first, nothing. Just green. Dense, wet, dark green. Then movement. A branch shaking. Then a shape. Dark. Massive.

What I thought: “Is that…? That cannot be… That is…”

What it was: A silverback. Not moving. Just sitting. Watching. Waiting.

How close: 15 meters. Then 10. Then 7. Then closer. The rules say 7 meters. The gorillas do not follow the rules.

The First Eye Contact – The Moment Time Stopped

What happened: The silverback turned his head. Slowly. Deliberately. His eyes found mine.

What I felt: My breath stopped. My heart pounded. My eyes filled with tears.

Why it affected me: He was not looking at me like an animal looks at prey. He was looking at me like a person looks at another person. Curious. Calm. Unafraid.

How long it lasted: Seconds. Felt like minutes. Felt like a lifetime.

What I did: I cried. Not sobbing. Not dramatic. Just tears streaming down my face. I looked at my partner. She was crying too. We held hands. We did not speak. We did not need to.

The Hour with Gorillas – Stillness, Tears, Awe

What they did:

• Ate (constantly)

• Groomed (tenderly)

• Played (the baby was hilarious)

• Slept (briefly)

• Watched (the silverback watched everything)

What I did:

• Watched (mostly)

• Cried (off and on)

• Took photos (when I remembered)

• Put my camera down (to just be present)

• Held my partner’s hand (almost the whole time)

What surprised me: They are so still. After the chaos of chimpanzees, the stillness of gorillas was shocking. They sat. They ate. They watched. They did not run. They did not scream. They just… were.

The Baby Gorilla – The Moment That Broke Me

What happened: A baby gorilla, maybe two years old, rolled down a small hill. Not far. He landed on his back. He looked up at the silverback. The silverback looked down at him. Neither moved. Then the baby picked himself up and climbed back to his mother.

What I thought: “That is exactly what my child would do. That is exactly how I would look at them.”

Why it broke me: Because it was so familiar. The baby’s clumsiness. The mother’s patience. The silverback’s watchful protection. I was not watching animals. I was watching family.

What I Loved Most About Bwindi

What I Wish I Had Known Before Bwindi

The Honest Bwindi Truth: “The chimpanzees made me laugh. The gorillas made me cry. I did not expect either. That is the magic. The forest gives you what you need, not what you expect.”

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[IMAGE PLACEMENT 4: Gorilla in Bwindi – eye contact shot, respectful distance. 1200px+. Caption: “The first eye contact. Time stopped. I cried.”]

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The Contrast – Chimps vs Gorillas (What Each Gave Me)

I did both. Here is what each experience gave me. They are different. You need both.

Side-by-Side Emotional Comparison

What Each Experience Taught Me

Which One Stayed with Me Longer?

The honest answer: Both. But differently.

The chimpanzees stayed in my laugh. Weeks later, I would remember the baby falling out of the tree and smile.

The gorillas stayed in my chest. The memory of that silverback’s eyes is not in my head. It is in my body. I feel it when I am quiet. I feel it when I look at my own family.

The deeper truth: “I needed the chimps to loosen me up. I needed the gorillas to open me up. Together, they changed me. Not in a dramatic, movie-montage way. In a quiet, I-am-different-and-I-cannot-explain-how way.”

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[IMAGE PLACEMENT 5: Split image – chimpanzee (active, canopy) vs gorilla (still, eye contact). Caption: “Chaos vs stillness. Laughter vs tears. Both. You need both.”]

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What Surprised Me Most (Things No Guidebook Told Me)

Here is what no one told me before I went. I wish someone had.

The Surprises

What I Wish Someone Had Told Me Before I Went

On preparing: “You cannot prepare for the moment. Stop trying. Just show up.”

On the cost: “It is worth it. You will forget the cost the second the silverback looks at you.”

On the fear: “Everyone is afraid. Even the guides, a little bit. Fear is respect. Feel it. Then walk anyway.”

On the photos: “Take some. Then put the camera down. Your memory is better than any photo.”

On the tears: “Let them come. Do not fight them. The gorillas will not judge you. Neither will the other trekkers. They are crying too.”

On the drive: “The long drives are hard. But the scenery is stunning. Window seat. Camera ready. Embrace the road.”

The Honest Surprise Truth: “The thing that surprised me most was me. I did not know I could feel that much joy. Or that many tears. The forest showed me something about myself. I am still grateful.”

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[IMAGE PLACEMENT 6: Candid moment – trekkers laughing, muddy, helping each other. Caption: “Strangers become friends in the mud.”]

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What I Would Do Differently (Honest Regrets)

I loved every minute. But I would change a few things.

My Regrets (Learn from Them)

What I Did Right (So You Can Too)

The Honest Regret Truth: “I do not regret going. I regret not staying longer. I regret not being more present. Learn from me. Put the camera down. Hire the porter. Stay an extra day. You will not regret it.”

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[IMAGE PLACEMENT 7: Personal moment – muddy boots, smiling face, tired but happy. Caption: “Muddy. Exhausted. Never been happier.”]

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Frequently Asked Questions – From Someone Who Just Did It

These are the questions I had before I went. Here are my honest answers after doing it.

Before vs After – My Answers

Is it worth the money?
Before: “I hope so. It is so expensive.”
After: “Yes. I would have paid double. Triple. Worth every penny.”

Is the trek as hard as everyone says?
Before: “I am moderately fit. Will I die?”
After: “It is hard. But you can do it. Hire the porter. Go slow. You will make it.”

Will I see the animals?
Before: “What if they hide?”
After: “98% success rate. The trackers know where they slept. They will find them.”

Will I cry?
Before: “Probably not. I am not a crier.”
After: “I sobbed. Bring tissues.”

Is it safe?
Before: “I was nervous.”
After: “Very safe. The guides are professionals. The rangers are armed. I felt protected.”

Should I do chimps AND gorillas?
Before: “Maybe just gorillas. Chimps are extra money.”
After: “Do both. The contrast is the whole point. Chaos vs stillness. Laughter vs tears. You need both.”

What if I am scared of animals?
Before: “I was not scared. But I was nervous.”
After: “Respect is not fear. You will respect them. You will not be afraid.”

The Question I Wish I Had Asked

“What will I feel after?”

Answer: “Different. Not dramatically different. Not like a new person. But changed. The silverback’s eyes stay with you. The baby chimpanzee falling out of the tree stays with you. You will look at your own family differently. You will be softer. More patient. More present. That is what you are paying for. Not photos. Transformation.”

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Your Turn – What You Can Expect on Your Uganda Primate Safari

I have told you my story. Now let me help you imagine yours.

What You Will Likely Experience

What to Bring (From Someone Who Just Did It)

The Honest Expectation Truth: “You will not be ready. No one is. But you will not need to be ready. You just need to show up. The forest will do the rest.”

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Your Planning Checklist – Ready to Book Your Primate Safari?

• I have decided: I am doing this.

• I have chosen my trekking locations (Budongo/Kibale for chimps, Bwindi for gorillas)

• I have budgeted for permits ($800gorilla+$200-250 chimp)

• I have set aside cash for porters ($15-20 per trek)

• I have packed (or will rent) gaiters and waterproof pants

• I have broken in my hiking boots

• I have purchased travel insurance (covers medical evacuation)

• I have gotten yellow fever vaccine (required)

• I have prepared emotionally (accepted that I might cry)

• I am ready for the adventure of a lifetime

I am ready to book my Uganda primate safari.

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The Peak – What I Learned About Myself in the Forest

Here is what I learned about myself in the forests of Budongo and Bwindi:

I am not as tough as I thought I was.

I cried at a gorilla. I laughed at a chimpanzee. I held my partner’s hand like I was drowning.

I am also tougher than I thought I was.

I hiked through mud that sucked at my boots. I climbed slopes that burned my thighs. I woke up at 5:30 AM without complaining.

The forest shows you both.

The chimpanzees show you your wildness. The joy. The chaos. The laughter.

The gorillas show you your stillness. Your tears. Your capacity for awe.

Together, they show you that you are both.

Wild AND still.
Chaotic AND calm.
Laughing AND crying.

That is what a Uganda primate safari gave me. Not photos (though I have hundreds). Not stories (though I have plenty).

A deeper understanding of myself.

I cannot promise you will have the same experience. The forest gives each person what they need.

But I can promise you this:

You will not be the same after.

The silverback’s eyes will stay with you. The baby chimpanzee’s clumsiness will stay with you. You will look at your own family differently. You will be softer. More patient. More present.

That is what you are paying for.

Not a vacation.

A transformation.

Go. The forest is waiting.

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Your Next Step

You have read my story now. The fears. The laughter. The tears. The surprises. The regrets. The transformation.

But reading is not the same as going. And going is the only thing that will give you your own story.

At Travel Giants Uganda, Charles Lubega has guided over 500 treks. He knows these forests like his own backyard. He can take you to Budongo’s chimpanzees and Bwindi’s gorillas. He can help you create your own story.

Ready to write your own chapter?

Email Charles Lubega directly at bookings@travelgiantsuganda.com with:

• Your travel dates (and if you are flexible)

• Your group size

• Whether you want to do chimps, gorillas, or both

• Any specific questions still on your mind

Charles will help you plan a trek that will give you your own moments of laughter, tears, and transformation.

The chimpanzees are screaming. The gorillas are watching. And your story is waiting to be written.

Let Charles take you there.

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[IMAGE PLACEMENT 8: Author bio – Charles Lubega smiling, forest background. Caption: “Charles Lubega has guided over 500 treks. He knows the forests. He knows the magic. He will help you find your story.”]

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Published for 2026 primate safari travel planning. Last updated: May 2026.